Bristol vs the world

A travel (and sometimes fashion) blog about exploring Bristol and the rest of the world, one post at a time.

Category: Food & Drink

March 23, 2012

Food Friday: Lisbon eats

Interior of the Casa do Alentejo. Credit for both photos: Retrorocketrick on Flickr
Casa do Alentejo dining room. Photo credit: Heather on her Travels

Casa do Alentejo
Rua Portas Santa Antao, Rossio
Although situated in one of the more touristy areas of town, this traditional Portuguese restaurant is not an immediately easy find. Not only is the building relatively unassuming from the outside – you certainly wouldn’t guess quite what was inside – but the ground floor is home to exhibition space showcasing Alentejan culture. The restaurant itself is situated upstairs, through a room filled with scattered furniture.

This may sound like a lot of hassle to go to for some food, but this restaurant is worth it if only for the gorgeous interior. Formerly the Palacio Alverdo, the building originally dates from the 17th century though did undergo significant work in 1918. It was renamed the Caso do Alentejo in the 1930s, when it became the secret place of Alentejans now living in Lisbon. Today it remains filled with the bright tiles that sum up the look of Lisbon, and even a stunning indoor courtyard. The restaurant itself features a murals created using these tiles and floors and furniture made of stately dark oak.

Yet despite its exuberant appearance, the feel of the restaurant itself is actually quite relaxed – there’s no need to dress up like you’re going for a royal dinner. Moreover the staff are friendly, chatter from fellow diners fills the dining hall creating a lively atmosphere, and the menu is reasonably priced. Although most patrons looked like tourists, we spotted some customers who could well have been locals too. The food itself isn’t outstanding, it was still tasty and a great example of traditional regional cuisine: coupled with the incredible setting, it made for an unforgettable dining experience.

Interior of the Cantinho da Paz. Photo Credit: Lisbon Restaurants

Cantinho da Paz
Rua da Paz 4, Santa Catarina
Tucked away in the Santa Catarina area, this family-run Goan restaurant is another one worth putting in the effort to find (and the risk of pushing open the door even if it looks closed!). It was small and friendly, and more importantly, we tasted some of the best curries we’d ever had: really rich and full of flavour. At around €15 for some of the mains, it’s not the cheapest eat in Lisbon but it was by far and away the best we experienced in terms of the food.

Restaurante Principe do Calhariz. Photo Credit: Virtual Tourist

Restaurante Principe do Calhariz
Calcada do Combro, 28, Bairro Alto
On the outskirts of the Bairro Alto, this bustling restaurant may look plain in décor, but its traditional Portuguese food is anything but. With young Lisboetas seemingly outnumbering tourists quite dramatically, this is a great place to sample ‘real’ Portuguese food – worth a visit despite the sometimes brusk service (probably because of quite how busy it is). I recommend taking a guidebook to attempt to translate the Portuguese menu, as I’m pretty sure we spotted some dishes that weren’t on the English menu we used – though I might be completely wrong!

The incredible Pasteis de Nata. Photo credit: Imaginacao Ativa
Exterior of Pasteis de Belem (my photo, for a change!)

Pasteis de Belem
Rua de Belém, 92, Belem
No visit to Lisbon is complete without a visit to this famous pastry shop. Sure you can buy Pasteis de Nata (custard tarts) at most cafes in Lisbon, but these ones really are the best – and worth the queues. Sprinkle on cinnamon from the packets provided, eat warm and savour.

Leave a comment
March 9, 2012

Food Fridays: Chez Bob, Belsize Park

Chez Bob’s colourful interior. Photo credit: chezbob.biz

With Hampstead’s many gastro pubs just up the road, Belsize Park could easily be overlooked for interesting dining options. Especially as most of the restaurants lining this area of Haverstock Hill are your standard chains. But Chez Bob offers something different.

A restaurant called Chez Bob, and particularly a restaurant called Chez Bob in upmarket Belsize Park, is in danger of sounding – and being – pretentious. But in practice, the restaurant is a lot more ‘Bob’ than ‘Chez’. The floor is lined with brightly patterned tiles, the walls with cheerful, colourful wallpaper. Seemingly always busy, the restaurant’s soundtrack is the happy hum of others’ conversations. There’s also an outside dining area which is lovely in summer, and just far back enough from the road that you can ignore the passing traffic. All in all, Chez Bob is bright, friendly and fun and not at all show-offy. Service too is always great – the waiters don’t rush you, are friendly and seem happy to provide recommendations.

The restaurant’s name, presumably, comes from the its premise of ‘French bistro meets steak house’ (Chez being French, Bob being American-sounding – geddit?). In practice, I’d say it’s probably more upmarket British pub food, sometimes with a bit of a twist. But more important than what type of food it is exactly, is that there’s a lot of choice that means everyone will find something that suits both their tastes and budget: mains range from £6.95 – £19.95, with most being around £10 – £13.

Having been a bit of a regular at Chez Bob’s, I have come to particularly love the starter of Bob’s Nachos, which always come piled high and smothered in toppings. £6.50 might sound steep for a starter, but the huge portion can happily feed 3-4 hungry people, if not more.

Choosing a main is more difficult. You can choose from a range of burgers and sandwiches, comfort foods including as mac ‘n’ cheese (£6.95), and more full-on meaty options, such as steaks and ribs. I’m a huge fan of the lamb steak with sweet potato chips (£13.95). The steak is juicy, full of flavour, and always cooked perfectly (I go for medium-rare), and the sweet potato chips compliment it really well. My vegetarian sister particularly enjoys the goats cheese and red pepper burger (£8.95). Bob’s Beef Burger (£9.95, add £1.30 if you want cheese or bacon) always seems to go down well with everyone who tries it. Presentation of the food is also nice, with many mains served on thick wooden boards rather than plates.

If you’re feeling particularly hungry and aren’t on a budget, I recommend the ribs (£19.95). It’s hard to convey quite how large they are, but if I say that there’s a reason they don’t come with a side as standard you might start to get an idea. This is somewhere where quantity isn’t prided over quality, though, and my Dad’s always found them really tasty (I’ve never been brave enough to try them!).

The huge Chez Bob ribs. Photo credit: chezbob.biz

And it’s always worth saving room for dessert. I’m usually a chocolate girl when it comes to pudding – and I can’t deny that the chocolate brownie is good. But Chez Bob’s apple, raspberry and pecan crumble is absolutely stunning. I can’t say more than that it’s just perfect. You’ll just have to try it! As with the mains, though, dessert portions are pretty generous and most people would probably be more than satisfied with sharing one.

Although the list of wine and beer isn’t huge, it’s more than adequate. That said, the beers all hail from the other side of the Atlantic, which may be a problem for some. I’m also not sure what I think of the menu designating the wine as ‘cheap’, ‘decent’, ‘good’, ‘excellent’ and ‘Bob’s pick’: cute and quirky, or just embarassing if you order the cheap option? (Perhaps that’s the point.) There’s also a cocktail menu; ranging from £6.50 – £6.95, the cocktails aren’t cheap, but there is a half price Happy Hour from 5-7 on weekdays making them a more affordable choice. The Frozen Passion Fruit Daiquiri sounds particularly interesting.*

There’s also a good selection of non-alcoholic drinks. As well as the standard fizzy brands, you can also choose from juice, ginger beer, root beer, fresh lemonade (which is delicious), iced tea, smoothies and milkshakes (also delicious).

Chez Bob’s Crumble of Dreams (Picture Credit: chezbob.biz)

If I had one criticism, it’s that the main restaurant can get a little loud at times, meaning you sometimes have to shout accross the table. The outside always feels a little more relaxed but, this being England, eating alfresco isn’t always (or often) an option. As a result, the lively atmosphere makes this a venue more suited to dining with family and friends than a partner.

The only other ‘problem’ is that the restaurant can get very busy, so it’s always worth booking a table if you’re coming for dinner or a weekend lunch/brunch.

With some much choice and such great food, it’s hard to do Chez Bob particularly cheaply out of Happy Hour – though it is possible if you’re careful. Some of the dishes do seem a bit expensive – if you’d forgotten that you were in Belsize Park, paying £12.50 for fish & chips or £9.95 for a plain burger is a quick reminder. However whenever we’ve visited the food has always been excellent and the portion sizes more than generous; on my many visits, I’ve not once been disappointed. This, combined with the friendly service and fun atmosphere, make Chez Bob well worth a visit.

Chez Bob’s weekday 5-7 Happy Hour also extends to the food; during this time, you can get penne arrabietta, steak or Bob’s Burger with a glass of house wine, Red Stripe beer or soft drink for just £8.95.

Contact Details
Chez Bob
205-207 Haverstock Hill
Belsize Park, London
NW3 4QG
Telephone: 020 7435 4925
Website: http://www.chezbob.biz/
Menus: http://www.chezbob.biz/menus.php

Leave a comment
January 23, 2012

Ghosts, cowboys and cocktails: Old Town San Diego

Whaley House. Photo credit: About.com

Cowboys and the Wild West conjure up three thoughts for me: John Wayne, Frontierland and the Hotel Cheyenne at Disneyland Paris, and the Will Smith song. None of these, as you’ve probably noted, are real. The thought that pioneers once road dusty streets in chaps and spurs is one of those that I still can’t get my head around having actually happened.

But Old Town State Historic Park, San Diego proves that such a world isn’t just confined to Westerns and theme parks. What you actually discover is somewhere that mixes its history with fun attractions and good booze (this having been a Mexican settlement, Tequila and Corona feature highly on menus). Though some might argue that these are one and the same.

Some of the scenery, Old Town San Diego

Considered the birthplace of California, the Old Town was colonised by the Spanish in the late 18th century.* And while only seven buildings from the original old town actually remain – the rest fell victim to a fire in 1872 and were reconstructed in the 1960’s – it still provides a sense of history. Even as someone who equates the Wild West with fiction, I could picture how the bustling town might have felt 150, 200 years ago.

Although some of the buildings in Old Town have been turned into commercial premises, many more have been dedicated to recreating life in the 1800’s. Mason Street School is California’s first public schoolhouse, La Casa de Machado y Stewart contains commonly-used artifacts from the period and The Seeley Stables museums is a must-visit for anyone interested in the transport of the period.

One of the less desirable aspects of life in Old Town San Diego

One of the attractions we visited was Whaley House, located off the main plaza at 2476 San Diego Avenue. We were drawn to it because of the claim that, according to America’s Most Haunted television programme, it is the most haunted house in the United States. Admittedly we weren’t actually expecting to see any ghosts (it was broad daylight and full of tourists), or even Woman in Black** levels of fear. But we did expect something a little spooky, or at least a bit of a laugh. The closest we came to a ghost, however, were the shapes produced by a combination of reflections and light in the glass barriers they conveniently happen to have erected between all the displays (cynical, us?).

‘Ghostly’ reflections, Whaley House, Old Town San Diego

This said, it was an interesting piece of history. For adults (or anyone old enough to spot the old glass trick), it’s probably not quite worth the entrance fee ($6 for adults, $5 for seniors, $4 for children aged 3-12). Families, however, should stop by – they provide lots of history about the house and the lives of those who live here and all the ones I noticed seemed to be enjoying the mix of history and potential frights! Make sure children speak to the staff too – not only did they appear very knowledgeable about the house, but they also seemed more than willing to share their own encounters with the house’s alleged spectres.

I would also be tempted to take the night tour to see if that provided a few more scares, though the ticket prices do rise to $10 for adults and $5 for children for these.

Our final stop was Café Coyote, a little down the road from Whaley House. There is no shortage of bars and restaurants in the Old Town serving Mexican food, most offering ridiculously cheap deals on Tacos in off-peak hours. Having not done our research (I know, I know) we lucked out with our snap choice of Café Coyote. Friendly service (waiters offering to take photos of the two of us on seeing my camera on the table), good atmosphere even in the off-peak mid-afternoon, and, more importantly my cocktail was strong while remaining flavoursome. There’s plenty of choice on the drinks menu too, with a wide variety of Margaritas and more varieties of tequila on offer than I knew existed! Though you’d expect nothing less from one of just two certified tequila houses in the United States.

Although I can’t comment on the food other the obligatory free chips ‘n’ dips (very good, in case you were wondering!), that looked appetising too and most of the reviews on TripAdvisor suggest that it tastes pretty good too. Not to mention that it’s been named Best Mexican Restaurant every year from 2005-2011 except 2007 (though Best Mexican Restaurant where isn’t specified…). They also have ‘Taco Tuesdays’, with the food on offer for $2 from 3.30pm – for that price, you can’t really go wrong!

Cocktails & Corona aplenty at Café Coyote, Old Town San Diego (Photo Credits: San Diego Blog

 

Is Old Town worth a trip? Those without children and/or a keen interest in history will probably find that they spend as much time in a bar as they do exploring the town, but it’s still an interesting excursion and the bars provide a nice setting to while away a few hours (despite the mariachi band!). I definitely preferred the setting to the other tourist hotspot for drinking, the Gaslamp Quarter in central San Diego.

Families should aside a good amount of time to explore Old Town. There’s lots to be learned here, and plenty of well-kept spaces and attractions to be explored (also, children are less likely to be cynical about some of the park’s less authentic aspects!). Before you visit, check out the area’s website: including information on special events and walking tours, it will make sure you manage to pack as much of the park as into your day as possible.

Old Town might not come at you all guns blazing and it’s no wild ride (sorry..!). But whether you’re into cowboys or coronas, the past or the present, Old Town San Diego will provide something here to entertain you.

*Actually, according to Frommer’s, it wasn’t officially American until 1842; until then it was Mexico’s informal capital of California.

**The play. Not the film. But only because I haven’t seen the film (yet) so can’t judge.

Leave a comment
January 20, 2012

Food Friday: Clayton’s, Coronado

 Clayton’s Coffee Shop (Picture Credits: Mojo Pages, http://cache.mojopages.com/images/review/5927171/claytons-coffee-shop1243225678.jpg)

With a minimalist white exterior, Clayton’s Coffee Shop is be pretty easy to miss. But bypassing this gem would be a huge mistake. Don’t just assume it’s your standard coffee shop – Clayton’s, a relic from the 50’s, is more of an old school diner than Starbucks. Round stools circle the main bar where you can watch staff prepare delicious milkshakes. On one side a glass cabinet displays mouthwatering pies. Behind the counter is a old-fashioned till (the tall kind where you have to punch numbers in manually), which towers over most of the servers. Don’t fancy the bar? Chose one of the red pleather booths that circles the exterior of this relatively small and cosy establishment, that comes complete with buzzing atmosphere and soundtrack of The Beatles and Little Richard chosen by customers via the tabletop jukeboxes for the cost of a few cents.

This whetting your appetite? I haven’t even got to the incredible food! We visited for breakfast; John chose the waffles with berries, while I had French toast with maple syrup. Both were full of flavour and the portions sizes were more than generous (let’s just say we felt a little bit self-conscious of our stomachs when we hit the beach later that morning!). Later in the week we made a return visit for late-night milkshakes (chocolate brownie for me, strawberry for John), a highly recommended alternative to finishing your night in a bar! You can also get main meals here, which the reviews on TripAdvisor suggest are equally as tasty. And it’s great value too – at the time of visiting, all menu items were under $9.

For a well-priced, great tasting food in a genuinely friendly atmosphere, Clayton’s cannot be beaten. And judging by TripAdvisor and the clientele we encountered there, the locals agree – a sure sign that this is a must-visit venue. Just make sure you’re there at a reasonable hour; we got seated immediately at between 10 and 11, but it’s a small place and queues were building soon afterwards. (You probably won’t encounter this problem if you go for a late night milkshake, mind.) Though if you do encounter a queue, it’s well worth waiting in it; Clayton’s was probably my favourite eating experience in California.

Leave a comment
January 16, 2012

Food Fridays: Trattoria Mondello’s, Goodge Street, London

Trattoria Mondello, Goodge Street, London. Photo Credit: Steve Bowbick on Flickr.

Even before tasting the food in Mondello’s, we could tell we’d make a good choice. Situated on Goodge Street, this cosy Italian feels like you’re eating at a family friend’s house. A family friend who happens to be a very good cook.

Although slightly old-fashioned, the rustic décor is immediately inviting. Wooden booths line the wall, with smaller wooden tables in the middle that can be rearranged to suit group sizes. The walls are decorated with murals and the specials chalked slightly haphazardly on the board at the end of the restaurant, tempting you with delicious sounding food. It’s not going to win any design awards, but it was cosy and unassuming and perfect for the sort of food served here.

But even more welcoming than the décor are the family who run the restaurant. A lovely Italian couple, they joked and chatted with us just enough for us to feel like they were really paying attention to us and appreciating our custom without at all intruding on the meal. Service was relatively quick, but we never felt like we were being hurried or rushed out as you can do at some many central London restaurants at lunch (admittedly they weren’t full, but we were taking up a lot of space).

The only problem is that their menu, full of classic Italian dishes (pasta, pizza, meat and fish), is huge. All of us found we had too many options to choose between before even finishing half of it!

In the end, though, I went for the meat cannelloni. I think I may have gotten a bit of menu blindness, as I often steer clear of bolognaise-based food in restaurants. Firstly because it can be a bit bland, and secondly because I’ve been spoilt by my Grandma’s bolognaise; renowned for being pretty sensational among our family, its exceptional flavour is rarely matched elsewhere. But I needn’t have worried. The sauce was lovely and rich, with just the right amount of sauce to be creamy without overpowering the dish. Served in the oven dish it had been cooked in, some of the food had crusted onto the side. Not only was this also really tasty, but I thought it really adding to the home cooking feel. Overall I think it possibly even rivalled Grandma F’s. And even better, it cost just £7.50.

The only slightly odd thing about our meal was the pasta special of sausage in tomato sauce. Instead of the sausage being mixed in with the pasta, it was placed around the outside in large chunks – more sausage with pasta as a (large) side. Not quite what what we’d expected! Apparently it was still good, but not quite as appealing as it had sounded when described and probably not worth the extra price compared to the standard menu pasta dishes. However the other food we tried, including chicken, pizza and plenty of pasta, all went down very well – great food, excellent portion sizes.

Although we didn’t try pudding ourselves, we got to salivate over them plenty. The owners bring round a dessert trolley (retro!) so you can ‘pick your own’ (and so they can tempt fellow diners like us in the process). They all looked incredible, a decent size and an even better better price – all except one cost £3-£4. I can’t say we weren’t very tempted.

Our bill came to £10 each including service and a bottle of red wine (although this bottle was shared between quite a few people so it would probably cost a little more with a smaller group). Still, I think even with two courses and a drink, or three courses, you could probably eat for under £20. From our experience I’d say that it’s probably best to stick to the main menu rather than splashing out on the specials, but overall it was a really great experience – I’d definitely like to go back, if only to pick something off the dessert trolley. The perfect place for affordable, tasty, traditional Italian in a friendly, unpretentious setting in the heart of London.

Trattoria Mondello
36 Goodge Street, London, W1T 2QN
Phone: 020 7637 9037
No website, but The Picky Glutton has put a menu on their blog which seems up-to-date in terms of food selection and price.*

*You might notice that their experience of Mondello’s unfortunately didn’t seem to be very good. However having looked on TripAdvisor and elsewhere, the positive reviews far outweigh the bad, making me more than happy to recommend this restaurant!

Leave a comment