Bristol vs the world

A travel (and sometimes fashion) blog about exploring Bristol and the rest of the world, one post at a time.
January 20, 2012

Food Friday: Clayton’s, Coronado

 Clayton’s Coffee Shop (Picture Credits: Mojo Pages, http://cache.mojopages.com/images/review/5927171/claytons-coffee-shop1243225678.jpg)

With a minimalist white exterior, Clayton’s Coffee Shop is be pretty easy to miss. But bypassing this gem would be a huge mistake. Don’t just assume it’s your standard coffee shop – Clayton’s, a relic from the 50’s, is more of an old school diner than Starbucks. Round stools circle the main bar where you can watch staff prepare delicious milkshakes. On one side a glass cabinet displays mouthwatering pies. Behind the counter is a old-fashioned till (the tall kind where you have to punch numbers in manually), which towers over most of the servers. Don’t fancy the bar? Chose one of the red pleather booths that circles the exterior of this relatively small and cosy establishment, that comes complete with buzzing atmosphere and soundtrack of The Beatles and Little Richard chosen by customers via the tabletop jukeboxes for the cost of a few cents.

This whetting your appetite? I haven’t even got to the incredible food! We visited for breakfast; John chose the waffles with berries, while I had French toast with maple syrup. Both were full of flavour and the portions sizes were more than generous (let’s just say we felt a little bit self-conscious of our stomachs when we hit the beach later that morning!). Later in the week we made a return visit for late-night milkshakes (chocolate brownie for me, strawberry for John), a highly recommended alternative to finishing your night in a bar! You can also get main meals here, which the reviews on TripAdvisor suggest are equally as tasty. And it’s great value too – at the time of visiting, all menu items were under $9.

For a well-priced, great tasting food in a genuinely friendly atmosphere, Clayton’s cannot be beaten. And judging by TripAdvisor and the clientele we encountered there, the locals agree – a sure sign that this is a must-visit venue. Just make sure you’re there at a reasonable hour; we got seated immediately at between 10 and 11, but it’s a small place and queues were building soon afterwards. (You probably won’t encounter this problem if you go for a late night milkshake, mind.) Though if you do encounter a queue, it’s well worth waiting in it; Clayton’s was probably my favourite eating experience in California.

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January 19, 2012

Coronado, California

Say Goodbye to Hollywood – Coronado is the new film set of California.


Coronado Beach

Forget self help books – it seems chick lit has been the guiding force in my life. Marian Keyes’ The Other Side of the Story is to blame for me wanting to go into publishing – even when I later found out that the literary agent with a sports car is not exactly a true reflection on the industry. And it was because of The California Club by Belinda Jones that I found myself looking at Coronado for the ‘beach’ portion of our dual-centered holiday to California (the other ‘centre’ was San Francisco – more to come on that!). Partly set on the island, the book made Coronado seem like an idyllic destination for a beach holiday: all sea, sun, and and surfers. And fortunately Jones’ book turned out to be a little (lot) more realistic than Keyes’!*

That said, it seems quite fitting that I first came across Coronado in fiction. There is something a little bit unreal about the ‘island’ (it’s an island in name only, connected to the mainland by a slither of land). The setting is straight from a film set with an almost ‘if Disney were to open a beach resort it would be something like this’ feeling. Pastel coloured houses are adorned by pleated, semicircular American flags. Away from the main road, streets seem almost devoid of cars. Surfers and lifeguards say ‘dude’ and ‘man’.

And that’s just the beginning. Our favourite eatery on the island was Clayton’s Coffee Shop, a diner and relic of the 1950’s (reviewed in more depth here). Our B&B, The Cherokee Lodge, was so-called because of the roses that adorned its perfect garden (also complete with flagpole sporting the Stars & Stripes). Even getting onto the island is an unreal experience. As you ascend to the top of Coronado Bridge, the road almost appears to disappear from underneath the vehicle. During one memorable bus trip one of our fellow bus passengers was so captivated by the experience that he actually stood up in some kind of salutation as we reached the bridge’s peak. Though I suspect he may have been drinking.

But if most of Coronado is a film set then the actors must live in the eye-popping mansions that line the beachfront. One of which boasted an RV that looked like it had more floor space than my house!

The Cherokee Lodge. And the garden’s not even in full bloom yet!

And then there’s the incredible (apparently the second best in the States), where wet sand genuinely sparkles in the right light and plants line the edges, giving it a natural feel. Besides its appearance, there are two reasons that Coronado Beach is unlike many others. Firstly, because – due to its vast width and length – there is plenty of space for everyone, even when we were there in June. We never felt uncomfortably close to anyone around us – definitely nothing like the sardine-tin like beaches you often see representing tourist spots. Though it’s advisable to avoid the area in front of the Hotel del Coronado as the majority of beachfront hotels are situated at this end, making this part of the beach feel more crowded and, well, touristy. A five-ten minute walk away not only provides more space, but also to a taste of (enviable) local life on the island. From surfing schools for pre-teens to families meeting to lunch to groups of friends singing to the accompaniment of an acoustic guitar; these tasters of how locals live life remind you that you’re not actually on a film set. Just be warned – occasionally you’ll find yourself sharing the beach with some of its less desirable inhabitants. One day we can down to the warning ‘Lots of jellyfish: shuffle feet’.

The second reason that Coronado Beach is unique? Every so often you get treated to the sight of an army jet coming into to land, the cockpit so close that you can almost make out the expression on the pilot’s face. Although we knew that half of the island was an army base, we hadn’t expected to get quite so close to the action!

The said, this is about as close to ‘action’ as you’re likely to get on Coronado. Compact and picturesque, it is the perfect location to take in at a leisurely pace, either on foot or by bicycle (bikes can be hired from either end of the island, at Holland’s Bicycles, Bikes and Beyond or the excellently named Wheel Fun Rentals). The marina provides some good photo opportunities, while halfway up Orange Avenue we found Spreckel’s Park the perfect place to stop for a picnic bought for a local supermarket. The park also has a play area to entertain any kids (big or little) you may be travelling with, while in the summer a series of concerts provide a more grown up form of entertainment on Sunday evenings. If you’re really desperate for an adrenalin hit but don’t feel like joining the runners and surfers, then you could always try hunting for the ghost of Kate Morgan, said to have haunted Hotel del Coronado since 1892. Legend has it that nobody’s quite sure whether she committed suicide or was murdered.

Even if ghosts aren’t your thing, the ‘Hotel Del’ is worth investigating (or, if you have the money, staying in) – not only is it a landmark on the island, but its oak-panelled reception and extravagant chandeliers are a sight worth seeing as you imagine the days when the likes of Marilyn Monroe were guests here. Oh, and it’s also one of the settings for The California Club – so if, like me, you were drawn to the island thanks to Belinda Jones, you’ll be able to put a face to the setting and see that it’s as perfect as the book describes!

It’s also worth making a stop in the Babcock Bar for a drink. It might not be cheap – on average a beer is $7, wine sits between $8.50 and $14 for a glass, and cocktails come in at $12.50+, but the Key Lime Pie cocktail in particular is worth saving for and savouring (Graham crackers around the rim of the glass!). Sat with our drinks overlooking the ocean (it’s ground floor, but you can still see the beach), the bar’s ukulele player/singer provided the perfect soundtrack to the evening.

The ‘Hotel Del’ from the beach

All of this sounding a little too laid back? The bright lights of San Diego are within easy reach. You could hire a car to get around the area, but the good public transport systems in both Coronado and San Diego make this unnecessary. Instead, you can get a bus or ferry, both of which will take you into central San Diego. From either drop-off point it is easy to either get further public transport or walk to your final destination. Some suggestions for these can be found here. But fun as San Diego is, I can’t pretend that I didn’t enjoy coming back to the calm and quiet of Coronado, and the feeling of really getting away from the ‘real world’.

Would I fly 11 hours from Britain just to go to Coronado and San Diego? Probably not – it’s just that bit too expensive and a bit far away. But if you’re in California then it’s definitely worth a visit. Situated just two hours from Los Angeles and easily accessible with new direct flight routes from London, it’s a feasible destination to either start or end a roadtrip down Route 101. We also found it to be the perfect compliment to San Francisco on our dual centred holiday, with flights between the two very quick and cheap. (Oh, and for what it’s worth, most Californians told us we’d done the right thing by choosing San Diego and Coronado over Los Angeles. Though seeing as most of these locals were either from San Diego or San Francisco (the latter of which allegedly has a bit of a rivallry with LA) then they might not be the most trustworthy of sources.)

If you want bars, clubs and action, you’re probably better off making Coronado a day trip and staying in central San Diego. But if you want a relaxing, escapist holiday and beautiful beaches then Coronado comes highly recommended.

Coronado Bay Bridge. Photo: Yuni, WikiSpaces, Bridge Notes

*That’s not to say that you shouldn’t read The Other Side of the Story. All of Keyes’ books are pretty awesome. Just, um, take it with a pinch of salt.

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January 17, 2012

Hammamet, Tunisia

An intense MA (me) and year of working (John) meant that by July last year all we wanted to do was lie on a beach for a week. Taking advantage of cheap package prices due to the earlier revolution, we ended up in Hammamet, Tunisia. Incidentally, for anybody concerned about whether the area is safe – please don’t be. In Hammamet, the only way you could tell that a revolution had taken place was through the almost-unreal stories of locals working in the hotel and running shops in the medina.

Although we went with little intention of leaving our sun loungers (something I probably shouldn’t admit on a travel blog…), we did see a little bit more of the country than our hotel. Although Hammamet is predominantly a tourist resort full of all-inclusive hotels, you will find Tunisians enjoying the beach in the town centre. Dating from the 15th century, the medina is also worth a visit – you could of course buy everything in here in your hotel, but where’s the fun in that when you could be haggling – though to be hassled by shop owners wanting to get you into their shops (also, heck out the prices of items in your hotel or online before visiting – the shop owners will start very high!). Our trip was rewarded with two ceramic bowls and two wooden pestles and mortars which now take pride of place in my kitchen.










See the photos on Flickr

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January 16, 2012

Food Fridays: Trattoria Mondello’s, Goodge Street, London

Trattoria Mondello, Goodge Street, London. Photo Credit: Steve Bowbick on Flickr.

Even before tasting the food in Mondello’s, we could tell we’d make a good choice. Situated on Goodge Street, this cosy Italian feels like you’re eating at a family friend’s house. A family friend who happens to be a very good cook.

Although slightly old-fashioned, the rustic décor is immediately inviting. Wooden booths line the wall, with smaller wooden tables in the middle that can be rearranged to suit group sizes. The walls are decorated with murals and the specials chalked slightly haphazardly on the board at the end of the restaurant, tempting you with delicious sounding food. It’s not going to win any design awards, but it was cosy and unassuming and perfect for the sort of food served here.

But even more welcoming than the décor are the family who run the restaurant. A lovely Italian couple, they joked and chatted with us just enough for us to feel like they were really paying attention to us and appreciating our custom without at all intruding on the meal. Service was relatively quick, but we never felt like we were being hurried or rushed out as you can do at some many central London restaurants at lunch (admittedly they weren’t full, but we were taking up a lot of space).

The only problem is that their menu, full of classic Italian dishes (pasta, pizza, meat and fish), is huge. All of us found we had too many options to choose between before even finishing half of it!

In the end, though, I went for the meat cannelloni. I think I may have gotten a bit of menu blindness, as I often steer clear of bolognaise-based food in restaurants. Firstly because it can be a bit bland, and secondly because I’ve been spoilt by my Grandma’s bolognaise; renowned for being pretty sensational among our family, its exceptional flavour is rarely matched elsewhere. But I needn’t have worried. The sauce was lovely and rich, with just the right amount of sauce to be creamy without overpowering the dish. Served in the oven dish it had been cooked in, some of the food had crusted onto the side. Not only was this also really tasty, but I thought it really adding to the home cooking feel. Overall I think it possibly even rivalled Grandma F’s. And even better, it cost just £7.50.

The only slightly odd thing about our meal was the pasta special of sausage in tomato sauce. Instead of the sausage being mixed in with the pasta, it was placed around the outside in large chunks – more sausage with pasta as a (large) side. Not quite what what we’d expected! Apparently it was still good, but not quite as appealing as it had sounded when described and probably not worth the extra price compared to the standard menu pasta dishes. However the other food we tried, including chicken, pizza and plenty of pasta, all went down very well – great food, excellent portion sizes.

Although we didn’t try pudding ourselves, we got to salivate over them plenty. The owners bring round a dessert trolley (retro!) so you can ‘pick your own’ (and so they can tempt fellow diners like us in the process). They all looked incredible, a decent size and an even better better price – all except one cost £3-£4. I can’t say we weren’t very tempted.

Our bill came to £10 each including service and a bottle of red wine (although this bottle was shared between quite a few people so it would probably cost a little more with a smaller group). Still, I think even with two courses and a drink, or three courses, you could probably eat for under £20. From our experience I’d say that it’s probably best to stick to the main menu rather than splashing out on the specials, but overall it was a really great experience – I’d definitely like to go back, if only to pick something off the dessert trolley. The perfect place for affordable, tasty, traditional Italian in a friendly, unpretentious setting in the heart of London.

Trattoria Mondello
36 Goodge Street, London, W1T 2QN
Phone: 020 7637 9037
No website, but The Picky Glutton has put a menu on their blog which seems up-to-date in terms of food selection and price.*

*You might notice that their experience of Mondello’s unfortunately didn’t seem to be very good. However having looked on TripAdvisor and elsewhere, the positive reviews far outweigh the bad, making me more than happy to recommend this restaurant!

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January 16, 2012

Au Vieux de la Vielle, Lille

Anyone who knows me knows that I am no good at making decisions. Awful in fact – they’re pretty much my kryptonite. So deciding where to eat in Lille was no mean feat – confronted by lovely looking bistro-style restaurants on every street in the old town, I could have eaten in almost every one of them. We eventually chose Au Vieux de la Vielle, situated on the Place aux Oignons, based on its cosy appearance and affordable but interesting menu.

Once inside, the first good sign was that the waitress addressed us with a stream of French. Usually something about our appearance seems to immediately give us away as British wherever we are (or at least have us mistaken for Germans), so the lack of consideration that we might not be local, or at least French, was a bonus – after all, no Frenchman would eat in a bad restaurant, would they? (Despite this, when it eventually transpired that our French was below par we were offered English menus and a friendly English-speaking waiter, who let us try to speak French but was helpful and understanding when we failed. So anyone with a similar problem shouldn’t be put off from visiting the restaurant.) And as it turned out, a huge range of French people were here, from ladies lunching to families, young groups of friends to office workers on a long lunch. Good sign number two, in my book.

So, good sign number three – its quirky feel. The restaurant’s aim, and the reason for it’s name, ‘The Old of the Old’, is to produce nostalgic dishes that feature in the French’s childhood. The building reflects this; it feels as though you could be eating in someone’s (well, a French someone’s) house. Ascending from narrow stairs onto the first floor, you find yourself in a cosy room decorated with tarnished saucepans, old paintings and black and white photos.

It being an old building, there’s not an awful lot of space and – as you can probably tell from the photos – the tables are pretty close to one another. Sometimes this could prove awkward, but there was enough enough chatter and background noise that it was loud enough not to feel like you’re unintentionally eavesdropping on those around you, without being so loud that it was obtrusive on your own meal. Some of this background noise included what sounded like traditional French songs, adding to the nostalgic atmosphere.

So we were already off to a great start before we’d even tried the food. John had vol au vent, chicken in puff pastry and mushroom sauce, which was perfectly creamy and full of flavour. Intrigued, I chose the beef stew in a beer sauce with gingerbread and brown sugar. I thought it could be a bit sweet, but needn’t have been concerned – it was hearty and the gingerbread and brown sugar added a gorgeous richness to the meal. Both dishes were accompanied by a very generous serving of chips (other options were available). John had a beer, while I had the house white, and we were both happy with our choices.

Although we were too full to sample the desserts, they looked amazing. And the after-dinner drinks of tea and coffee were served in fun-looking, old-fashioned tin pots which looked intriguing and also almost tempted me to indulge in one.

Costing about £15 each for a main course and drink, the meal was pretty averagely price, though probably a little cheaper than you’d pay for the same food and quality in the UK. I’d certainly recommend it to anyone visiting Lille who isn’t looking to splash out on the town’s more high-end restaurants. Its great atmosphere and even better food made for the perfect meal to warm us up and send us on our way for an afternoon of sightseeing on a brisk, December day.

Read more about Lille here, or visit the restaurant’s website.

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