Bristol vs the world

A travel (and sometimes fashion) blog about exploring Bristol and the rest of the world, one post at a time.

Cultural Copenhagen

Design Museum Copenhagen garden

Although we spent a lot of our time in Copenhagen eating and drinking and possibly even more just wandering the streets (no, not like that), we also found time to visit a few museums too.

It’s worth noting that there’s definitely an ‘off’ season in Denmark – most things seemed to be more fully open from about the time the Tivoli Gardens open in mid-April until the end of Summer. This meant that in a number of the museums, not all exhibitions or areas were open. But on the plus side, they were also relatively quiet. So if there’s nothing you’re absolutely desperate to see, then I’d definitely recommend an out-of-season visit.

Design Museum Copenhagen display

Design Museum Copenhagen shop

Design Museum Copenhagen Wegner Exhibition

Design Museum
John’s a Design Engineer and we both love wooden, mid-century furniture so a visit to the Design Museum was always a must. In one half, the museum showcases key design themes, pieces and designers while in the second, the focus is on the more traditional. Our knowledge of historical Danish design was (is) limited, so we were quite suprised by the look of the older pieces.

We also saw the beginnings of a new exhibition (it didn’t open fully until a couple of days after our visit) – Wegner, ‘Just One Good Chair’ which was already looking really excellent.

Also excellent was the (free!) exhibition catalogue we were given on arrival. Thick paper and beautifully designed – I guess we should have expected nothing else considering the museum we were in!

Great shop too – as with everything in Copenhagen, it’s slightly pricey, but there’s some gorgeous products in here. We managed to restrain ourselves and came away with just a large (A4) postcard, but the wallet damage could easily have been much worse!

The details
http://designmuseum.dk/en/
Bredgade 68 / 1260 København K
Nearest Metro stop: Kongens Nytorv
Entry: 90DKK. Free if you’re a student or under 26 (something we very conveniently found this out a couple of days before my 26th birthday. Guess where we headed the next day..!)
Closed Mondays & some bank holidays

Carlsberg Glyptotek Copenhagen

Winter Garden Glypototek

Winter Garden Glypototek2

Glypototek

Peter Bangs Vej 145  - 2000 Frederiksberg   DK
Ny Carlsberg Glyptoteket

When I was talking to my manager about my plans for Copenhagen, this was the first place she recommended. Even if you’re not interested in the collections, she said, the building itself is amazing.

Walking into the main courtyard of the Glypototek, I understood exactly what she meant. Called the Wintergarden, it’s like a huge greenhouse or orangery full of trees and plants and fountains and statues and benches. Unexpected and breathtaking. My manager was right – even if you’re not too bothered about the art, it’s worth making the most of the museum’s free entry on Sundays just to see this.

And if you are interested in art, there’s plenty more here to explore, from Egyptian mummies in a basement to rooms and rooms full of statues (so many statues! And busts. And bits of statues and busts) to Danish art to French masterpieces by Gauguin and Cezanne among others. Sadly the latter section was closed when we visited, which was one of the areas we were most interested in, but we still spent an hour or so in the other rooms and marveling at the building itself.

The details
Dantes Plads 7 | DK-1556 Cph
Nearest station: Central Station (Københavns Hovedbanegård)
http://www.glyptoteket.com
75DKK (Adults). Children under 18 go free.
Free entry on Sundays – we thought it would be heaving as a result but it didn’t seem to be.
Closed Mondays & some bank holidays

Danish Jewish museum

Danish Jewish museum

Copenhagen Royal Library Garden

 

Copenhagen Royal Library Garden

Danish Jewish Museum
There was an unwritten rule of city holidays in my family. If we found ourselves in a new city with a Jewish museum, then my Dad would gravitate towards it. When I was younger, I just didn’t get it. Sure they were interesting – but how different can each Jewish museum be? How much more can they say?

But as an adult (allegedly), I have inherited this gravitational pull. It’s like there’s some kind of magnet that gets passed through Jewish blood and kicks in when we get to about 18. I’ve also learnt that Jewish museums can be, are, very different. I’m ashamed to admit I knew very little of how Sweden helped Danish Jews during the war. The exhibits focusing on this area were the highlights of the museum for me. The other displays were more focused on Jewish culture through the years, featuring items like Torahs and clothes.

It wasn’t the best Jewish museum I’ve been to, but it was interesting to hear a new side to the Second World War story. And the building itself, jutting walls and interesting lighting, is stunning; it was designed by Daniel Libeskind, the man behind the Jewish Museum in Berlin – along with many other projects. Although exploring the museum itself will probably only take an hour or so of your time, being able to see inside the building is justification enough to pay the entry fee.

It’s also set within the small, peaceful Royal Library Gardens, the perfect place to just sit and stop and think (or not think!) for a little while.

The details
Købmagergade 5, 3
1150 København K
Nearest station: Kongens Nytorv
http://jewmus.dk/en
50DKK (Adults), or 75DKK for main and special exhibition (special exhibition wasn’t on when we visited). Students and pensioners are 40DKK/65DKK. Children under 18 go free.
Closed Mondays. During off-peak season (01/09 – 31/05), only open 1-4 on weekdays (open all day at weekends).
It’s worth noting that the museum is closed on some Jewish holidays (i.e Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur) as well as national Bank Holidays

experimentarium copenhagen

Experimentarium
OK, this one’s not quite as cultural as the other museums we visited – but it was a whole lot of fun! The Experimentarium is a science museum full of hands-on exhibits. Test out your fitness and strength, learn about Danish inventions or see inside your body. It’s really aimed at children, but that doesn’t mean that big kids can’t spend a good couple of hours here playing around. Go in the afternoon though – apparently it gets very busy with school groups in the morning.

I highly recommend if you fancy a laugh for a few hours. That said, when it moves back to Hellerup (their main building is currently being refurbished and expanded) then it’s probably quite not worth the trip for adult-only parties. Though the expansion may add lots of extra features that prove me wrong (and the architects’ designs a Google Image search throws up are undeniably intriguing).

The details
Trangravsvej 12
1436 Copenhagen K
Nearest station: Christianshavn Torv
https://www.experimentarium.dk/
Children 3-11, Students & Disabled: 105DKK
Adults (12+): 160DKK
Under 3s and Disabled helpers go free
Closed some bank holidays
(No I haven’t just missed a line – it’s open on Mondays!)

We also visited the lovely Viking Ships Museum in Roskilde – you can read a little more about it here

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Picture Credits
All pics that aren’t mine link to original source
Design Museum exterior, shop and collection (3rd pic): Design Museum website
Glyptotek exterior and interior statues: Glypototek website
Experimentarium from accross the water: Location CPH
All other pictures my own, please credit if using

Covering up, without losing your cool

Shorts, miniskirts, floaty dresses: packing a suitcase for a hot destination is usually a no-brainer. Well, besides narrowing down quite which clothes to take, or whether it’s worth risking the extra weight fee.

But what if you’re going somewhere where more modesty is required? Especially if that somewhere is too hot for jeans and jumpers? Here are some of my favourite summery clothes for when you want to cover up without feeling like a frump.

The sarong/light scarf
Almost every ‘what to pack for travelling’ article lists a sarong or scarf, and for good reason. They’re perfect for destinations where less conservative dress is generally accepted, but where you might need to hide your shoulders and/or legs in some areas or to go into certain places, such as religious buildings. Plus they’re light and small enough to carry around all day without causing backache.

Joy Giraffe Scarf
Giraffe scarf
Joy
£18
Mainly chosen because it’s got a giraffe on it. And because ‘giraffe scarf’ rhymes. It’s also oversized, which makes it perfect for wrapping around your waist if you need to cover up your legs, and also means it should double up as beachwear too. Pretty and practical = perfection. Also comes in red.

New Look tropical sarong
Palm print sarong
New Look via ASOS
£9.99
Going somewhere tropical? Fit in with your surroundings by wearing this palm-print sarong from New Look. Just make sure that if you’re wearing it for modesty reasons, you tie (or hold) it in a way that avoids unintentional leg flashes.

Oysho striped sarong
Striped sarong
Oysho
£25.99
The description says that it has a POCKET. That’s all you need to know. (Fine, fine, it’s also 105x186cm which makes it a decent cover-up size, too.)

Light trousers
The problem with trousers is finding a pair that doesn’t make you look like you’re a wannabe 18-year-old Gap Yah-er. But they do exist (even if some might just make you look like a sailor instead).

Oysho linen trousers
Linen Trousers
Oysho
£25.99
Cool, comfy and stylish: linen trousers are a summer staple (providing you don’t mind wearing slightly creased clothes or taking a travel iron with you. My preference is the former). But they can sometimes be a little bit shapeless. Step forward Oysho (again) with this tapered, turn-up style. Just remember the nude knickers, and avoid if it looks like it’s going to rain.

Espirit beach trousers
Nautical beach trousers
Espirit @ ASOS
£23.00
They’re described as beach trousers, but seem opaque enough to be suitable for wandering around town, too. Plus they look like they’d be just so blooming comfy.

ASOS Petite floral summer trousers
Petite, floral wide-leg trousers
ASOS
£38
One for my fellow shorties. ASOS actually have quite a good number of summery trousers in their petites section, if you don’t mind them coming in a heat-absorbing black or a peg leg (I can imagine the latter resulting in sweaty ankles – can anyone confirm?). I prefer this light, swooshy pair. Another that’ll probably require nude knickers, though.

Maxi skirts & dresses
Kind of stating the obvious here, and they’re not exactly hard to get hold of! The problem is finding suitable ones that don’t have a slit going halfway up the leg, reveal too much cleavage or have an exposed back. These are all a bit more modest, though the sleeveless ones might also require a scarf or kaftan cover-up in some places.

Miss Patina When In Woodstock Dress
‘When in Woodstock’ maxi dress
Miss Patina
£49.80
This is a dress to float, not walk, in. A dress that would make you feel like a classic Hollywood movie star. A dress made of dreams. (Now could you make a version a few inches shorter, please, Miss Patina?)

dorothyperkinscoralmaxi2
Coral jersey maxi skirt
Dorothy Perkins
£18
Sometimes, you just need a plain skirt that’ll go with everything. This maxi fits the bill. They also do a slightly more expensive version in navy and ‘blush‘. Or if you’re a bit shorter and want something similar that you won’t trip over, try this New Look Petites drawstring version (£14.99).

andotherstoriesbohemian
Cotton Midi/Maxi Dress
& Other Stories
£45
I want to wear this dress skipping through hills, hair in plaits a la Heidi. Although this is more of a midi dress length on the model (even if they do call it a maxi on the website), at 109cm it could well be full-length on shorter ladies. But don’t despair, ladies of not-petite stature! The sleeves means it’ll work in places where you need to cover knees and shoulders, but don’t need to go the whole hog.

andotherstoriesshirtdress
Star Print Maxi Dress
& Other Stories
£69
To borrow a phrase from the cool kids, & Other Stories is killing it on the dress front at the moment, offering lots of almost-perfect maxi/almost maxi dresses (though some might require a high-necked strap if you want to be properly covered up). But this one was one of the best of them all. Good coverage, lightweight fabric and ideal for going from day-to-night, saving room in your suitcase and time in your schedule.

Monki stripe maxi dress
Striped jersey maxi dress
Monki
£18
Simple, easy and comfortable – everything you want from holiday clothing. I’m not sure how well you’d fare wearing this in this in the boiling heat (I’m not a fan of tight clothes when the air is sticky), but it’s a good option for slightly cooler countries, or evenings. 99.9% positive there’s no thigh-slit.

Tops & Shirts
When it comes to tops, finding something that’s suitably high-necked and lightweight but not sheer can be a challenge. The below manage the former, but I can’t promise that some won’t require a thin underlay to prevent unwanted flashes of skin and belly-button through the fabric. You can also never go wrong with some plain, lightweight, jersey t-shirts, but here are some more ‘interesting’ options.

hmstripecottonshirt
Long-line, blue cotton shirt
H&M
£14.99
I do love a long-sleeve shirt when travelling. Light, airy and they go with most things in your suitcase. Roll the sleeves up when it’s a bit warm, down again when it cools. Button up high when you need, lower when you can be more relaxed. So simple, yet so many virtues…

oyshoshirt
Embroidered cotton top
Oysho
£25.99
Guys, I promise this post isn’t sponsored by Oysho. They just do comfy, casual, covered up holidaywear really well. Admittedly this one’s more your stereotypical holiday cover-up, but the pattern is cleaner than most other tops like this, and it’ll look great with some classic trousers. And let’s be honest, sometimes you’ve just got to embrace the traveller/tourist look.

mylittlepony
My Little Pony t-shirt/tunic
ASOS
£25.00
Not a particularly holiday-y top, but it’s essential you know this t-shirt/tunic exists. You’re welcome.

asosoversizekimonoblouse
Oversize floral kimono shirt/blouse
ASOS
£36
So pretty, so floaty, so perfect.

Kimonos and cover-ups
Kimonos seem to be ‘in’ at the moment, which is Good News for you. These items of clothing do a similar job to shawls and scarves (on the top half at least, you can’t really fashion them into a skirt). Perfect for throwing on over sleeveless tops, easy to carry around and oh-so-pretty.

H&M patterned kimono
Patterned, long-line kimono
H&M
£14.99
I love the longer length of this one, particularly combined with such a classic, simple pattern. One to make you feel like a proper grown up.

Monki Nina Top
White ‘Nina’ Kimono Top
Monki
£25.00
If you want a kimono that’ll go with everything without being boring, look no further than Monki’s Nina top. If you’re a fellow food/tea/suntan lotion spiller and thus scared of white, they also have a similar black, floral version (£20).

Asos floral kimono
Floral petite kimono (also available in the tall range)
Girls on Film @ ASOS
£28
ASOS love kimonos so much, they’ve got a whole section dedicated to them. I’ve chosen this one for us shorter girls who don’t want to be drowned in fabric. It’s also really quite lovely; so lovely, in fact, that I may even be able to forgive the description of this range being for petite ‘babes’ (I’m not a pig) just this once.

That’s all my tips for now. What are your rucksack/suitcase essentials for destinations where you need to cover up a little, and are there any shops you think are particularly good for these sorts of clothes?

Food Friday: Lunch and dinner in Copenhagen

Last week I highlighted some lovely spots for a bit of breakfast in Copenhagen. But woman cannot live by pastries alone (much as I’d love to)! So here are some of the places we enjoyed lunch and dinner.

DOP hotdog Copenhagen

Hot dog stands
Everyone warns you that Copenhagen is expensive, but nothing quite prepares you for just how expensive. Especially when it comes to food and drink. That doesn’t mean there aren’t cheaper options, and a good way to save a few pennies is by grabbing lunch from one of the many hot dog stands around the city. We tried two. The one sat at the top of Nyhavn won on location. We ate in the sun, lounging on some nearby steps overlooking the beautiful, much-photographed harbour. However while those hot dogs were tasty, there’s a reason that readers of Politiken, a Danish broadsheet, voted DOP the best restaurant in Copenhagen (hot dogs pictured above). This might sound a bit odd, but the real stand-out about their offering was the bun – super soft and not chewy at all. So, so good.

Stands cost from around 25DKK, though DOP’s were a bit more expensive (around 36DKK).

Kodbyens Fiskebar dessert
Kodbyens fiskebar mussels

Kodbyens Fiskebar
From the cheapest places we visited on our trip to the most expensive. But oh was it worth it. A fish and seafood restaurant, Kodbyens Fiskebar is located in ‘cool’ Kodbyen. Also known a the ‘meatpacking district’, Kodbyen is next to Vesterbro and, conveniently, less than a five minute walk from our apartment.

As you might expect from its name, this area was – and still is – home to butchers; many now stroll to work as partygoers stagger home from the surrounding bars and clubs. Strict planning laws means that the restaurants and bars who have moved in have to preserve the white-tiled outlets as they were when they were home to butchers. As a result, none of the places in the area look particularly fancy. So despite Kodbyens Fiskebaren seemingly being one of the most-talked restaurants in Copenhagen at the moment, we loved that it was also completed relaxed and welcoming and more suited to jeans than a dress.

More importantly, the staff were friendly and helpful and the food and drink was incredible. Go, go, go and eat as much as you can possibly manage!

‘Raw bar’ plates (almost like ‘samplers’, of which you need more than one dish): DK115-145 for three pieces.
Medium courses (large starters): 105-165DKK
Bigger courses (mains): 165-255DKK
Desserts: 95DKK

Reservations highly recommended (book online)

bangaw

Ban Gaw
Admittedly Thai probably isn’t the natural choice for dinner in Denmark, but Ben Gaw on Sonder Boulevard was conveniently situated and looked full every time we walked past – both big ticks. It’s not the best Thai I’ve ever eaten (that title still goes to Oli’s Thai), and I probably wouldn’t make a special trip to eat here if I wasn’t staying nearby. But the food was flavoursome and and portions were generous. And, by Copenhagen standards, it was reasonably priced too.

Starters: 50-69DKK
Mains: 124-184DKK, but most around 150DKK

Cocks and Cows Copenhagen

Cocks and Cows
You have to ignore the ridiculous name for this one, but it’s – just about – worth it. This burger restaurant has two outlets in Copenhagen, one on Sankt Peders Straese, near the university and Latin Quarter and another on Gammel Strand, just on the other side of the river from Slotsholmen. This is the one we found ourselves in.

There’s 10 burgers to choose from (mostly cow, rather than cock based, and also one veggie option). I can highly recommend the Juicy Lucy, a hunk of meat with cheese oozing out of the middle. You can also pick one of three types of bun: sesame, whole grain or Sweet American (a brioche-style sweet bread). John and I both plumped for the latter. I never normally finish burger buns, preferring to concentrate on meat and chips instead, but I polished off most of this one!

There’s also a number of sides on offer – some fairly typical (fries, curly fries, onion rings) and others less so (BBQ wings and ribs). While the latter were tempting, instead we both chose the chilli fries, which turned out to be a good decision.

There’s also a good choice of drinks. As this was looking to be our only meal of the day, we went all out and filled ourselves up on milkshakes. They were very good, but next time I think I’d be tempted to splash out on a cocktail.

Good quality burgers in central locations, Cocks and Cows is definitely worth a visit if you’re looking for something simple, good-quality and filling when in Copenhagen.

Picture credits
DOP hot dog: DOP’s Facebook page
Kodbyens Fiskebar exterior: Courtesy of Tripadvisor
Kodbyens Fiskebar food: My own, please credit if using
Ban Gaw: Thai Com
Cocks & Cows: Politiken

A morning in Roskilde

Roskilde Viking Ship Museum

 

During our time in Copenhagen we decided to make use of the extensive railway network and take a trip out to Roskilde. Perhaps most well-known for its music festival, Roskilde is also a really pleasant area to just wander around. The main street in the town admittedly isn’t hugely exciting, but just beyond that, past towering Roskilde Cathedral, it becomes greener, the buildings more traditional. And then you see the vast fjord beyond. Copenhagen isn’t exactly a hectic city – far from it – but Roskilde is that bit slower, calmer, quieter.

We ambled through a park and down to the Viking Ship Museum, where we spent a good couple of hours looking around the main exhibition and boatyard, clambering over their exhibition ships and trying on the Viking costumes, before eating an ice cream overlooking the fjord.

The perfect way to spend a relaxed morning in Copenhagen.


Roskilde

Roskilde

Roskilde Viking Ship Museum

Roskilde Viking Ship Museum

Roskilde fjord

Roskilde Viking Ship Museum

Roskilde Viking Ship Museum

Roskilde Viking Ship Museum

Roskilde Viking Ship Museum

 

Roskilde Viking Ship Museum

Roskilde Cathedral

Roskilde

 

Getting There
We went by train. Roskilde is in Zone 7, a ticket for which costs DK 108

Viking Ship Museum
Open every day except 24, 25 and 31 December
Open 10-4, or 10-5 22/06-31/08

Prices
Adult: 80 DKK (October-April), 115 (May-September)
Students: 70 DKK (October-April), 100 (May-September)
Children up to 18 go free

Photos
All photos my own, please credit if using

Food Friday: Breakfasting in Copenhagen

When I’m not gobbling granola (/spilling it on my work clothes) in a rush to get out of the house, breakfast is my favourite meal of the day. Especially on holiday: waking up slowly with a tea and well-cooked food has to be one of life’s simplest, greatest pleasures.

Although we ate a couple of ‘boring’ breakfasts in our apartment (well, if you can call Coco Pops from a flipping variety pack boring), we made room for a few Danish pastries too. Here’s a round-up of the spots we found.

Granola Interior via Red Matter
Breakfast at Granola, Copenhagen

Granola
Værnedamsvej 5
1819 Frederiksberg C
If someone said ‘imagine a 50’s American-style soda fountain without plastic, and designed by a Dane’, I’d be picturing something a little like the gorgeous Granola. It’s not only pretty, though; Granola wasn’t just my favourite breakfast in Copenhagen – it jostles for a place in my list of best ones of all time. And considering I take the first meal of the day very seriously, that’s no mean feat. Our ‘sweet’ breakfast platter consisted of yoghurt with compote and granola, fresh fruit, a pancake-y/french bread concoction, toast and – best of all – a home-made, Nutella-esque chocolate spread with actual nuts on top. (I later found out you can buy this to take home. Gutted I did not know this earlier.). My fruit smoothie was also excellent. Smaller breakfasts are available, as is a savoury larger breakfast. Or if you’re feeling really hungry you can get a sweet-savoury combination. Also open for lunch and dinner, if you fancy returning for one of their ‘hard’ shakes.

Breakfast from Bagerdygtigt, Istedgade, Copenhagen
Bagerdygtigt, Istedgade, Copenhagen

Bagerdygtigt, Istedgade, Copenhagen

Bagerdygtigt
Istedgade 120
1650 KØBENHAVN V
Did you know Danes don’t call Danish Pastries Danish Pastries? They call them ‘wienerbrød’ (Vienna bread).

Whatever you want to call them, the Danes do make them well and this friendly bakery, 5-10 minutes from ‘our’ apartment, was no exception. The perfect combination of being really tasty without being too sweet or sickly. We chose to take ours back at the flat, but there was also plenty of space to eat in.

 

Breakfast at Andersen Bakery, Copenhagen

Andersen Bakery
Three premises, by Tivoli Gardens (Bernstorffsgade 5), and in Frederiksberg (Gl. Kongevej 148) and Osterbro (Østerbrogade 103)
Continuing the unexpected pastry facts, the original incarnation of this well-known Danish bakery was actually in Hiroshima, Japan, way back in 1962; the founder, Shunsuke Takaki, was inspired by a trip to Denmark a few years before.

But while that’s interesting, what you really need to know is that there’s a reason pretty much every website, blog and guidebook recommends this bakery. The ever-so-flattering-and-cool photo just about sums it up. And I was possibly even more happy once I’d tucked in to the pastries. Not a bad way to start a birthday.

Photo Credits
Granola Interior: Red Matter via Pinterest
Bagerdygtigt interiors Bagerdygtigt’s Facebook page
Granola food, Bagerdygtigt food, Andersen Bakery breakfast: My own, please credit if using.

Next Food Friday: Lunches and Dinners