Bristol vs the world

May 28, 2014

Where to stay Wednesday: Air B&B in Copenhagen

Walking down the cobbled street we assumed lead to Mette’s apartment, we felt a little nervous. Mette had been nothing but friendly and helpful so far, and there were plenty of very positive reviews on her Air B&B page. But what if the reviews were fake, and the apartment wasn’t anything like it was described? What if Mette didn’t really exist? What if we’d managed to get our dates mixed up and we were only due to stay for two nights and then we’d be accomodation-less and forced to stay in either a dump or fork out over the odds for somewhere more salubrious? What if, what if…

As it turns out, it wasn’t Mette that greeted us that night. But only because she was on a plane to London when we arrived. Instead her sister had kindly agreed to let us into the apartment instead (all of which we knew about). Once she’d showed us around and handed us the keys, that was it: the apartment – which looked exactly like it did in the photos (ie. stunning) – was ours for five days.

Despite our trepidation, we chose Air B&B for two main reasons. Firstly because our trip was five days and nights, and having a kitchen/dining area meant we wouldn’t have to eat every meal in Copenhagen’s infamously expensive restaurants. Secondly, city breaks are exhausting. All that walking and exploring and unfamiliarity is wonderful, yes, but also, sometimes, draining. I know that some nights the last thing I want to do is spend it trying not to look knackered in a restaurant or bar. Yet most city hotel rooms (or at least, city hotel rooms in a sensible price bracket) are really just somewhere to sleep. Functional and perfectly pleasant, but small and claustrophobic if you spend too long in them. Choosing an apartment would give us the space we’d like to really relax on the evenings where our feet and brains were kaputt!

We chose Mette’s apartment partly because it was beautiful and spacious, but mainly for its location in Vesterbro. It was within easy walking distance of the main train station and most tourist attractions, but residential enough to feel like you were seeing the ‘real’ Copenhagen (and so we could avoid dodgy tourist trap bars and restaurants!). I’ll write more on the area in a separate post, but I’d highly recommend staying around here if you can. As many will say, Istedgade is still ‘interesting’ at the end closest to the main station but it’s nothing to really worry about; while I’m not sure how comfortable I’d have felt walking along it alone in the dark, during the day, and with John, I never felt unsafe. There are also other route options if you really didn’t like it. Otherwise, the area is wonderful: full of interesting, independent restaurants, bars and shops just waiting to be explored.

I couldn’t recommend Air B&B highly enough to anyone considering whether to make their first booking. The booking system is more long-winded than your standard hotel ones (you have to get in touch with a host first to see if their apartment is free, and many would – understandably – prefer not to take bookings too far in advance as they don’t know their plans. That said, Mette took our booking in October, six months before our stay, so you can still plan reasonably far ahead). However, for us, it was absolutely worth the effort. Just make sure you do your research so you know what you’re booking. Key things to take note of: is it a whole apartment or just a room? Where is it in relation to the city centre/places you want to see on your stay? What have previous guests said? Any other rules or important information to note? All of this should be clear and easy to find on the listing. Having to make contact with the host before booking also has its benefits, as it gives you a ‘sense’ of them (are they fast to respond? Friendly? Helpful?) before you commit.

The only people I wouldn’t recommend Air B&B to are those who enjoy the extra comforts a hotel offers: room service, bed made, no cleaning up after yourself or cups of tea to wash up. Personally we didn’t miss these, preferring the independence and freedom self-catering gave us (picking up pastries from a local bakery for breakfast, a quiet evening in with pizza and reading on the sofa, not having to worry about fixed breakfast times or when a maid will come to clean the room), but I know that wouldn’t be the same for everyone.

But for the right people and at the right apartment, Air B&B is brilliant. I’d highly recommend it and will definitely look into using it again next time we’re on an extended city break.

Post not in association with Air B&B – I know I had my doubts beforehand, so wanted to share my positive experience with others in case anyone feels the same way and is wondering about booking. Do it!

Photos
All photos except one featuring breakfast from Air B&B listing
Breakfast photo my own, please credit if using.

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May 26, 2014

Not-so-lonely goatherders: A weekend at Woodspring Farm

Not counting festivals or nights in caravans, I have only camped once. It was a practice trip for a school expedition to Vietnam and we were forced to go to Buxton in January. (Quite how pitching a tent on snow prepares you for trekking in the rainforest I’ll never know.) One night I woke up and was shaking so much, I genuinely considered waking my tent-mates and asking them to tell my parents I loved them should I freeze to death. Let’s not even get started on the trauma of putting on new underwear. Overall, not a life highlight.

So despite John’s repeated suggestions that we should invest in a tent, I’ve been avoiding any ‘real’ camping ever since. That was until last Christmas, when I happened upon Canopy & Stars. The ‘glamping’ arm of Alistair Sawdays, the website lists a number of unique, and quite appealing, camping hideaways in the UK and Western Europe. They seemed like the perfect Christmas present: enough outdooryness/nature for John and a proper bed for me (also part of making this a perfect present for him, as it meant that I wouldn’t wake up grumpy after a bad night’s sleep on an under-inflated air mattress).

After searching through options in the South West, I eventually settled on Crook’s View Shepherd’s Hut on Woodspring Farm, Kewstoke. Situated between Weston-super-Mare and Worle, Kewstoke’s less than an hour from Bristol by car, which meant we could spend more time enjoying being there and less time driving/getting lost.

The hut turned out to be perfect in so many ways. From the moment I booked, the owner, Victoria, was incredibly friendly and helpful, sending an email full of information about the hut. This continued throughout our stay; she and her partner, Andy, made us feel welcome and were more than happy to chat and offer recommendations, but they also gave us plenty of privacy, too.

The location, too, was ideal. Although described as being in Kewstoke, Woodspring Farm is very much in the countryside, close to walks through picture-perfect green fields overlooking the coast. It’s the ideal combination: a peaceful escape, yet close enough to towns to be able to get hold of amenities (and takeaways) easily!

And then there’s the hut itself. When we arrived – on a very wet January Saturday (date chosen because it’s our ‘anniversary’, and I’m a masochist) – the stove was already burning. This and the abundance of blankets kept us cosy throughout our stay. Victoria and Andy provided everything we needed (and more), from utensils, plates and mugs to marshmallows for roasting over our wood burning stove. A handy folder gave recommendations of walks, restaurants and other nearby attractions. And if the weather had been better, we’d have loved to have tried out the storm kettle and outdoor fire pit.

If you do want to cook for yourself, but it’s not quite outdoor-cooking weather, there’s also a ‘guests’ section in Victoria & Andy’s farmhouse which contains a small kitchen (as well as a toilet/bathroom and space to hang up soggy clothes to dry overnight – very much appreciated!). As it was a Christmas present (and we’re lazy), we instead decided to treat ourselves and order in from the local Indian, who deliver to the farm. Delicious, and exactly what we needed on a stormy January night.

We also ate out for lunch, at the Sand Bay Tea Rooms in Kewstoke. Excellent grilled cheese sandwiches and milkshakes, and really friendly owners. We popped in on our way to the farm, but it’s also walking distance from the hut.

Talking of food, the breakfast (included in your stay and delivered to your door at the time you request the previous night) was amazing – and very filling! Even we couldn’t finish it all, and packed some of the snacky bits for our morning walk and journey home.

But although everything about our stay was lovely, there were two stand-outs. The first was the resident mischievous-but-friendly goats! We had a good giggle watching them try and break into our hut and, later, out of their field! They also seemed to like the taste of my waterproof.

The second was waking up in in the hut. Hut’s windows and doors open, we clutched mugs of tea and watched as the goats devoured their breakfast and dawn broke over the hills. There is no better way to start a morning.

Admittedly our shepherd’s hut experience isn’t exactly what many would consider ‘proper’ camping. It’s certainly not roughing it – not that I’m complaining. But if you want to get away from it all and back to nature but with some home comforts, it’s the perfect way to do so. We’ve already booked our next Canopy & Stars getaway, and were planning to go back to Crook’s View before we’d even left. Perhaps in the summer next time, though; I want to use the fire pit!

Photo Credits
Top photo: Courtesy of Canopy & Stars website
All other photos my own – please credit if using

The details
Crook’s View Shepherd’s Hut
Pricing starts at £160 for two nights (we actually only stayed for one, but I don’t know if that’s an option any more – and I’d highly recommend staying longer, anyway!)
Near Kewstoke, South West England
Nearest train station: Worle (about 3 miles). You can cycle from here, or Victoria will pick you up from £2
Parking on-site

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May 25, 2014

A Magical Afternoon

Outside Warner Bros studios
Usually, when everyone tells me how good something is, I end up leaving a bit disappointed. Having built it up in your head to be spectacular, it can never quite live up to expectations.

So having been told by at least ten different people that the Harry Potter (sorry, Warner Bros) studio tour is amazing, I was a little apprehensive. Although this didn’t stop me feeling like an excited child when we pulled into the car park.

I shouldn’t have worried. Our whole experience was incredible, and possibly even exceeded my – very high – expectations.

After the initial introduction, this is a self-guided tour. You wonder between the actual sets* to theme-specific exhibits, such as a costume rail, displays of props and (inevitably one of my favourite parts), a section on the animal actors who featured in the films. Televisions also accompany some of the sets, playing short interviews with crew members.

*It’s worth highlightinh that you view the sets from behind a rope, you can’t quite gp through them, understandably!

But what really blew me away was the amount of detail there was everywhere, how much attention was paid to every last thing. Whether it was dressing every inch of a set or how they created some of the more complex sets and props, everyone went to so much effort even for something that would appear for only seconds or just in the background. It made me want to watch all the films again, to take them all in with this additional knowledge in mind – knowing it’s far more than special effects (not that any less effort was went to with the special effects – these too are hugely impressive).

John has only seen a couple of the films (despite having read all the books), but even he was intrigued and absorbed. Being an engineer, the mechanics behind many of the props and sets particularly grabbed him. (I promise I didn’t force him there! In fact, he actually went voluntarily, having bought the tickets for as a birthday present – I’ll be hanging on to him!)

Personal highlights were walking across the bridge, Diagon Alley and the model of Hogwarts at the end. I won’t say much more, partly because I don’t want to spoil it for anyone who hasn’t been and partly because words wouldn’t do it justice, but they were all pretty incredible.

Diagon Alley Warner Bros Studio Tour

Any downsides? Well, there’s a reason you’ll spot quite a few almost-untouched Butterbeers lying around in the picnic area (though I’d have regretted not tasting it more. I am the sucker the marketing/sales people at Warner Bros must love. On the plus side, we did bring in our own sandwiches (well, Boots meal deal. We’re not that organised), avoiding the large queues and, from what I hear from others, not-cheap prices. So I think that makes it 1-all.)

Talking of prices, if you’re bringing kids (or are a big kid yourself) then prepare to march them through the extensive gift shop very quickly, or for quite a large credit card bill. Seriously – one chocolate frog (albeit huge) will set you back £8. Mugs start from about £10. You don’t even want to know the cost of one of the knitted House Colour jumpers… I was very tempted by the prints designed to advertised Weasley’s sweet products but somehow managed to restrain myself and only came away with a mug.

Also, John was kind enough to get me the ‘Complete’ ticket that, for £10 extra, comes with the souvenir programme and digital tour (these would cost £15 if you bought them and the entry ticket separately). In themselves, these weren’t a downside. Even though the programme doesn’t offer much additional content, it makes for a nice souvenir and contains some great photos – perfect if you realise after seeing all the sets that your camera was on a dodgy setting and none of your own photos have come out.

On the other hand, there is a lot of additional content on the digital guide, from additional interviews with crew members to galleries of images. This in itself isn’t a bad thing, but it was so extensive that John, who opted not to have one, would have read everything about each section and be nearly ready to move before I had got even half way through the extra clips. Admittedly you probably could spend more time looking at the detail than he did, though. But regardless, if you’re going to get a digital guide, it’s worth either finding a way to share it around your party or persuading everyone to get one (they cost £5 if purchased separately from entry). While John was very good and patient (presumably part of the birthday present deal!), I did feel a little guilty about how long I was taking at some points.

Overall though, this was a fantastic, pretty-much-perfect attraction that will appeal to adult and child Harry Potter fans alike. It really is as good as everyone says it is.

Bridge @ Warner Bros studio tour

The Details
Warner Bros Studio Tour
Adult Standard Ticket: £30
Child Standard Ticket: £22.50 (Free for under 4s)
Family (Either 2 adults/2 children, or 1 adult/3 children): £89
‘Complete’ Studio Tour Package (including souvenir programme and digital guide): £39.95 (adult)/ £32.45 (children)
When you book, you’ll be asked to choose a date and time. I’d recommend leaving at least 3-3.5 hours to get round, so pick a time that will allow you not to rush!

Getting There
The nearest station is Watford Junction, and shuttle buses run from there
Driving is relatively easy and there’s free parking on-site

What I Wore
Skirt & belt: Vintage; T-shirt: (very old!) Topshop; Jacket: Monki

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April 28, 2014

I <3 the USA: Stateside beach reads from a British point of view

First off, apologies for the month-long hiatus – one holiday (Copenhagen), one mini-break (Penally/Tenby) and one mini-mini break (less than 24 hours in Manchester, mainly for a Backstreet Boys concert. I know you’re jealous), followed more recently with some housing projects in the room our computer is in, don’t make for a very productive blogging environment! This also means that I don’t have access to the photos from these trips for the time being – but I will wrote about them all soon, promise. In the meantime, an entry I can do with some stock photos.

With prime holiday season just around the corner, I’ve been thinking about some of my favourite ‘escapist’ reads. Perfect for holidays on the beach, long plane journeys, road trips or just a quiet hotel night in, these books are the ones where the location is just as exciting and vibrant as the characters and plot.

But when I started writing this entry, I realised there were far too many for one post (or at least one you’d be able to get to the end of). So I decided to group them in themes. So hopefully in the first of what will be many book recommendation posts, these are some of my favourite books about Brits conquering (OK, exploring) America.

I’ve kept it to ‘lighter’ reads for the time-being (not to diminish them, they’re just not Chekov. Which is not a complaint!) but I know I’ve still left lots of this list. What would you add?

Angels – Marian Keyes

Marian Keyes is one of my favourite authors. Angels is the first novel of hers I read, and the first time I realised that chick lit could cover more ‘hard hitting’ issues – in this case, separation and divorce is the last of it.

Part of the Walsh Family series, Angels is the story of ‘the good one’, Maggie. Except Maggie doesn’t feel like doing everything ‘right’ any more, and decides to leave her life – including her husband – in Ireland to join her best friend, Emily, 5,000 miles away in the city of Angels. What follows is an adventure around Los Angeles combined with an exploration of Maggie’s past as we slowly come to understand what really brought her here.

Incidentally Rachel’s Holiday (one of my favourite ever books) and The Brightest Star in the Sky are two other Walsh family stories partly set overseas, both in New York. The city is less of a theme in those, so they didn’t quite make their own entry on this post, but both are brilliant novels more than worthy of a spot on your ‘to read’ list.

The Longest Holiday – Paige Toon
There seems to be a mini theme emerging already! The Longest Holiday’s protagonist, Laura, also runs off to the States to get away from a floundering relationship. Except this time we’re on the other side of the country, in the Florida Keys.

The plot isn’t the most unpredictable, but the engaging, interesting characters and mouthwatering, colourful setting ensure this a real page-turner that draws you in and makes you want to book the next flight to Miami.

Belinda Jones – The California Club, California Dreamers, Divas Las Vegas, On The Road to Mr Right

Some of Belinda Jones’s best novels (in my opinion) are set state-side. Of her ten books, The California Club and Divas Las Vegas are my personal favourites.

The former follows a group of friends who visit their fifth member, Helen, in their newly adopted hometown in San Diego. Except she’s unrecognisable from the person they once knew. Helen attributes her transformation from clipboard-wielding organisation freak to relaxed surfer to The California Club and insists her friends try it out. What follows is an adventure from Yosemite to Tijuana, told through the eyes of the likeable Lara, as each friend tries to understand what they really want from their American adventure.

Divas Las Vegas follows best friends Izzy and Jamie as they seek the men of their dreams in Sin City.

Although Belinda Jones’s plotlines aren’t always the most realistic (this is escapist chick lit after all!), I love how she really brings a location alive – wherever the novel is set, you’ll have added it to your ‘to visit’ list by the end. You might even find you end up there – it’s because of The California Club that we knew about, and decided to stay on, Coronado Island when we went to San Diego a few years ago. Sadly not in the Hotel Del… though. Maybe one day.

Alternatively, if you prefer non-fiction, On The Road To Mr Right is worth a look, following Belinda and friends’ mission to visit towns with loved-themed names throughout the States (Intercourse, anyone? OK, maybe love and lust themed…) on a quest to find the perfect man.

America Unchained – Dave Gorman

Talking of road trips reads, this non-fiction book has to be one of the most interesting I’ve ever come across in the genre. Comedian Dave Gorman attempts to drive from the West to East coast without giving any money to ‘The Man’ (aka chains). Along the way he discovers a dog-shaped motels, unique diners, petrol (sorry, gas) station woes, Mom and Pop stores and whole host of characters that make this a fascinating and inspiring read.

Mousetrapped – Catherine Ryan Howard
From avoiding ‘the Man’ to working for one of the biggest conglomerates of them all – Mousetrapped is Catherine Ryan Howard’s memoirs from her time working at Walt Disney World, Florida (though for a chain on property, rather than for The Mouse itself). Featuring backstage antics, dodgy flatmates, the Space Centre and plenty of Starbucks, this is a light-hearted but interesting read about ex-pat life in the Sunshine State.

I’ll admit, I’m a bit biased as I was actually working in Walt Disney World around the same time as Catherine, so could relate to a lot of what she experienced (Disney run an International College Programme where university students can work with them for a summer . Despite the 6-day weeks, 13 hour shifts and being paid the equivalent of about £3 an hour, I genuinely had the best time of my life and would recommend it to everyone. Non-students should check out their other international programmes). But I think anyone who has experienced living and working abroad (or would just like to know what it feels like) will appreciate and enjoy this well-written book.

Header image taken from Litreactor

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Aside | March 26, 2014

Journey south: Totterdown & Knowle, Bristol

With all these entries about far-flung adventures, I’ve been neglecting the ‘Bristol’ bit of this blog recently (again!). It’s not an excuse, but sometimes I take living in such an exciting city for granted, to the extent that I become uncertain whether what I’ve enjoyed recently is really worthy of a blog post.

And then something happens, like Bristol being named as the best city to live in the UK by the Sunday Times, that makes me appreciate how lucky we are to live here, to have so much right on our doorsteps.

In the spirit of ‘right on the doorstep’, today’s post is all about the first Bristol neighbourhood I called home, Totterdown and Lower Knowle. Although they may not be the most well-known areas of Bristol, both have a lot to offer. And, if you first visited Bristol by train, they also may have even given you your first impression of the city (hopefully a more positive one the beautiful Parcel Force building, too!). If you sit on the left of a carriage, look out for the rows of brightly-coloured houses peering over the cliff edge, marking the start of Totterdown.

These communities may be a little out-of-the-way for the average Bristol visitor (or even anyone who lives north of the river), but here are just seven reasons they’re worth turning left out of Temple Meads station.*

The Office

This tiny bar opened in 2012 and has fast become a local favourite. It looks ‘cool’ (exposed brick, industrial-style lights – you know the drill) yet feels welcoming rather than try-hard. It’s a particularly lovely spot on a warm day, when they open up the glass screen-fronts onto the patio and the sun streams in. And while a patio set not-too-far-back from the busy Wells Road, one of the main routes out of Bristol, doesn’t sound like the most pleasant of spots, somehow it manages to be a really relaxing place to wile away the hours with a pint (or two). They also serve tapas, which I’ve heard a lot of good things about.

A Capella, Wells Rd, Totterdown, Bristol

A Capella

Whether you want a full English breakfast, a light (or not-so-light) lunch or a huge pizza, this award-winning restaurant is the place to come for tasty, good value food at any time of day (the pizzas – which can be eaten in or taken away – may not look cheap, but even those with huge appetites would be hard-pushed to finish one on their own). Other bonuses: friendly staff, it’s bring your own and they will put their (amazing) cake in a take-away container if you’re too stuffed to eat it there (or if you’re just walking past and have a craving for a slice or two, but don’t have time to stop). Incidentally, while all the cakes are excellent, I particularly recommend the carrot and ginger ones.

Thali Café

I may have written about this restaurant before, and it’s not unique to Totterdown, but a list of my favourite places in the area wouldn’t be complete without a mention of the amazing Thali Cafe.

Farrows Fish and Chips

If there almost always being a queue isn’t enough to convince you of how good this takeaway is, the fact that it’s won a number of awards – most recently storming away with the title of Bristol’s best budget eatery – should do.

Victoria Park

Not a local BS3/4er and looking for somewhere to sit with your Farrows chips (or A Capella cake/pizza)? Or just fancy a post-breakfast/lunch/dinner walk? Head down to Victoria Park, one of my favourite spaces in Bristol. It even has a table tennis table (though you do have to supply your own bats and balls). Watching the sun set over the city from the top of the hills is particularly special.

Perrett’s Park

That said, views from Perrett’s Park are arguably even better.

Gaines Greengrocers

This might look like a bit of an odd addition to this list, but I couldn’t not mention Gaines. You’ll recognise it from the bright array of fruit and vegetables spilling onto the pavement (not literally! They have crates and boxes and tables, you don’t have to pick produce off of the floor!). But Gaines doesn’t just sell your five-a-day. This tiny store is a bit like Mary Poppins’ bag, packing in more foodstuffs than you’d ever think possible, including (but not limited to) freshly baked bread (or baking ingredients to make your own), organic grains, fairtrade chocolate, tofu, tasty peanut butter and even matzah. The owner, Jason, and his co-workers are genuinely friendly and helpful, too. Good food served with a smile – sums up the spirit of this part of BS3 and 4 for me!

*This is far from an extensive list of things to do in Totterdown and Knowle – there are plenty of places that are still on my ‘to visit’ list but I’m assured are really nice (in particular the Star & Dove, Duchess of Totterdown and Assilah Bistro). And I haven’t even started mentioning the many pubs, either!

Image Credits

Colourful Totterdown Houses (first pic): The Guardian

Office Bar and Canteen, A Capella: Courtesy of Tripadvisor

Thali Totterdown: Thali Café website

Victoria Park: Toulouse and the Vegetable

Perrett’s Park: Gaelallan on Panoramio More Totterdown houses (last pic): Rwendland via Wikipedia

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